Cycling in the Hungarian Countryside

We cycled today from Visegrad to Estergom which was a 63 km ride. This involved crossing on three different ferries and also cycling on Szentedre Island at the knee of the Danube. This is one of the most scenic areas of Hungary and over a distance of about 20 km the river breaks through mountain sides and flows down toward Szentendre. Visegrad is scenically embedded in the Danube Bend and is sometimes referred to as the “diamond of the Danube Bend.” We did not see much of Visegrad as this was our departure point and the boat had docked there over night. We took a ferry across the Danube fromVisegrad and after a 12 km ride to the village of Tahitotfalu we crossed over on another ferry to the lovely town of Vac. We were encouraged to explore this particular town and enjoy some fabulous baking in the town square--which is exactly what we did in the company of 4 of our cycling companions from the boat. We had a very congenial and lively coffee break enjoying fantastic pastries (again, Louisa found the chocolate jam-jams!). It was also Market Day in Vac and there were many booths where the little old Hungarian women in their babushkas were selling their meagre produce. Vac is really a lovely town with a large pedestrian/cyclist area. It seems bikes are a very popular mode of transportation in Hungary, particularly in the countryside and smaller towns. We should add here that while the countryside is very pretty, the poverty is also readily apparent. There is a better standard of living in the cities but those living outside of the main centres continue to have a very poor standard of living. The route took us again along the Euro Velo 6. The pathway was tremendous today -- very easy to follow weaving through some very quiet and peaceful landscapes, small towns and agricultural lands. We cycled on through the day with our coffee companions -- Susan and Alan from Wisconsin (our dinner partners at Table 8) and Jim and Linda from California. It was such a relaxing and enjoyable day with lots of laughter and interesting conversations as we got to know each other a bit better. When we reached the last ferry our tour guide, Leslie Ringwald, joined us. He usually leaves the boat after everyone else has departed and cycles the route. He must cycle very fast as we were one of the first groups to leave and he caught up to us with just 12km left on the route. He said he would take all of us to a great restaurant where we could have some delicious fish. Leslie is Hungarian and knows where all of the good food is along these routes. As a matter of fact he was born in Hungary and his father was a freedom fighter in the 1956 revolution. They soon after fled Hungary and lived for many years in Austria and the United States. He is quite a character with a quick wit. He loves both Hungary and Austria dearly and encouraged us to enjoy the local cultures of both. At the restaurant we had a very mild white fish which was battered and deep fried with chips and pickles -- and very LARGE beers! Ricardo had an opportunity to get a hair cut as the waitress is also the local hairdresser. He passed on this as we were running out of time as we needed to be back on the boat by 3:30. Leslie tried to talk him into it and said he needed a haircut as he had “hippy hair”!! Up to this point that was our best day of cycling. It was a superb day. It started off at departure in a bit of fog and mist but as we crossed over on the ferry to Vac the sun broke through, the skies cleared and it was perfect for the remainder of the day. What a spectacular day with great people, great food and an even greater cycle route!! We only have one more cycle day left -- in the Wachau Valley although we are signed up to cycle tour Vienna tomorrow. We are finding that this week is going by quickly and it will be sad to see the week end. Then again it will be off to another adventure in the Black Forest area. Life is good--we both feel so lucky to be here having this wonderful time!